The
time pulses at Steinberg & Tolkien
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The
Steinberg & Tolkien's owner, Anne
Steinberg, in front of the window display
of the charming store on Kings Road.
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Steinberg
& Tolkien is a truly fashion history
exhibition. The two floors which shelter one
of the biggest vintage
collection of Europe are a trip through time,
punctuated by rarities capable of thrilling
any simple appraiser, what can we say about
the affectionate...
The
Mark and Anne Steinberg's business started 10
years ago, in the field of antique jewellery.
From the interest of the owner for movie costumes
- his other professional facet - the precious
S&T's heap has started to be constituted.
Currently, the friendly Anne, together with
her daughter and son, Tracy Tolkien and Mark
Steinberg, keep the administration and the hard
gold mining, searching for fashion relics from
other times.
The
prices aren't cheap. After all, the difference
between a store like that and the common second-hand
stores is that it deals with special pieces.
The selection is able of delighting actresses
like Julia Roberts, Chloé Sevigny and
Winona Ryder. Or models like Naomi Campbell
- who prefers ethnic pieces from the 70's -,
Kate Moss - who loves a naive dress from the
50's -, or Helena Christensen who buys old night
gowns to wear them as dresses. That without
talking about the designers who acquire inspiration
for genuine fashion revivals. After all, there
it is found Diors, Gibenchys, Valentinos and
Balenciagas... Authentic!
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Histories
from the past told by clothes and jewellery.
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The
clients cry out "That's me!" or "This
is a Missoni" or yet "I'm so 60's…"
- giving the same grade of importance for the
three phrases, as they are there looking for
exclusivity,
originality and history. Besides mere
interested mortals, the store attends celebrities
and their personal stylists - as vintage is
more than fashionable - and is often visited
by designers and fashion producers.
According
to Tracy Tolkien, "street markets and second-hand
stores offer bargains. But to find the right
piece can take a whole day, weeks or even years..."
To be a S&T's client is to be dead cert
of not leaving empty-handed. The gold mining
family guarantees, searching for rare clothes
and accessories in uncountable American and
European cities. Fairs, auctions and big vintage
wholesalers are just some of the ways.
Full
of experience in this wonderful world of relics,
Tracy launched last year the book Vintage
- The art of dressing up (Pavilion
Books Ltd.) , a mix of fashion history
and passion for past styles. In it she describes
several fashion movements since the 40's, detailing
jewellery, bags, shoes and some designers who
marked each epoch. And yet offers a truly vintage
guide: a full list of the best stores in United
States of America, Canada, Europe and curious
web sites. Yes, they exist. Many buy, sell and
auction through internet!
At
Steinberg & Tolkien all the pieces are for
sale. The prices vary a lot, depending on factors
as signature, condition of conservation, fabric,
etc. In the promotions room, dresses are around
£50 (about R$160) while a velvet shirt
signed by Pucci can cost £485 (+- R$1500).
Obviously the stock changes daily. Relics go,
rarities come. But, it is possible to affirm
that, on the second week of July/2001, when
LondonLink's reporters were there, at least
five moments of pure emotion were registered:
1- The original Érte, dated of 1933,
in golden embroidery;
2- the dress printed with Campbels soup tins
signed by Andy Warhol;
3- the several Elza Schiaparelli;
4- all the clothes hanger with Emílio
Pucci's pieces, next to Dior's clothes hanger...
5- the brightness and the glamour of the jewellery's
window displays. It is possible to feel hearths
beating behind the brooches and necklaces...
No smell of musty. Much style and precious moments
of the history.
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Steinberg & Tolkien - 193 Kings
Road - Chelsea - Sloane Square Tube + a
walk or a bus that goes to the end of the avenue.
- Some of the web vintages suggested
by the book:
http://www.vintagevaluations.com
- it is the Steinberg & Tolkien's
site itself, but it is being built.
http://www.vintagecouture.com
- buy and sell through the net.
http://www.vintagegladrags.com
-catalogues separated by decades between 1880
and 1950.
http://www.tox.ndirect.co.uk
- specialised in articles for motorcycle riders.
http://www.antiquedress.com
- with section for bridal gowns!
