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Visual
culture Jam promotes a meeting between London
and Tokyo

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Jam's
poster/divulgation with Paul Simon's drawing
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The
first Jam happened in 1996, inspired by the idea
of "jam session" - an informal meeting among different
musicians, which renders improvisation, exchange
and unique moments of creation. Joining fashion,
video, music, photography, media, graphic arts
and new technologies (whew!), for the first time,
a big institution like the Barbican blended so
many and so different languages.
This time, Jam has come to blend even more, because
it celebrates a meeting between Tokyo and London.
Defined as a concept the "cosmopolitan culture
globalisation at the beginning of the new millennium",
the exhibition shows a selection of British and
Japanese talents. From drawing to photography,
from television to computer, from street fashion
to dandy, crossings, dialogs and contrasts are
just some of the multiples trajectories the exhibition
proposes.
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Fashion
people in the tube. Paul Simon's drawing
in exhibition at Jam.
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The
mix of languages and media enriches the result:
there is fashion designer making video, sculptors
with an eye in streetfashion, musician exposing
objects. And it is that the Jam's great merit..
As the designers of the 68/76 brand say, "we're
going round movies and web sites. To make just
clothes, is something which can take you to the
insanity, mainly in London, where everybody is
crazy about getting the ideal look. We try to
mix and add details to the clothes which can make
the people think."
And
as the street fashion is a strong point, besides
the exhibition of fanzines and magazines, music
selected by DJ's and the explicit aesthetic influence
from the clubs and pubs' flyers, the crossings
are made in other and several senses. The Paul
Davis' drawings hand over immediately to the steady
East
End's goers - one of the London trendy
areas at the moment - through clothes, hair and
accessories. In the same way, the Tomoaki Suzuki's
sculptures are completely full of style. Street
fashion beyond the photograph.
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Tomoaki
Suzuki's sculptures. Street fashion in wood.
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And
yet if, reasons specifically fashion were important,
it is good to know that Jam counts on:
- the Hussein
Chalayan's airmail dress - stirring concepts
of presence and absence;
- his aeroplane dress, in "video-partnership"
with Marcus Tomlinson;
- Sheley
Fox collection, inspired in the Braille
code: for beyond the fashion view it explores
sensations;
- Undercover's outfits, showing unused
common stitches for different materials;
- The slide projections over croquis, from Simon
Thorogood, extremely inspiring for textile development
or printing; - the Elaine
Constantine's photographs, an important
presence in the fashion image of the last decade.
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Hussein
Chalayan's aeroplane dress in video from
Marcus Tomlinson.
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And
more, computer is what isn't missing. For many
of the artists, mainly the Japanese, the space
is that: digital. Prominence for the pets simulation
which can be sent by e-mail, from the artist Kazuhiko
Hachiya, shaking off the relations between pleasure
and technology. And even Shiseido - the exhibition's
sponsor - produced its own stand with the Beauty
Navigator: in days determinate, the cosmetic brand
offers to the visitors the opportunity of printing
results of different techniques and make-up products,
in an "interactive virtual make-up" experience
(!)
Jam
is concentrated, mainly, at Barbican Gallery,
on the floor above Helmut
Newton Work. But it is also spread, reinforcing
once more its concept. It appears unexpectedly
on other floors of Barbican Centre and in other
galleries of the town, like Dazed & Confused and
the Artomatic. And as it couldn't let be, it expands
on the net through the unlosable web site www.onlinejam.co.uk,
specially designed by Airside. Besides showing
much from the exhibition, it is itself, a great
work of design.
In
the physical spaces, the design is signed by Shin
and Tomoko Azumi and challenges the parameters
of a conventional exhibition. In the middle of
much artificial white grass, unusual furniture
and good ideas like Jessica Odgen's clothes over
a wooden ramp and magazines suspended by elastic
supports. Real or virtual, delicious jam. Impossible
don't get mixed.
Until 08/07/2001
Barbican Gallery - Barbican Centre - Silk St.,
London EC2. Metrô Barbican.
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