Mental - exhibition joins science, clothes, sculpture and hormones.

Invitation of Mental exhibition at ICA

Mental definitely isn't a conventional fashion exhibition. Mental isn't the designer's retrospective, it isn't epoch clothes, it isn't photography, it isn't a catwalk show. Mental is research in science, art and clothes, signed by a designer who took apprenticeship with Valentino in Italy; opened her own label in London (1984); won the Most Innovative British Designer award ( 1990); dressed Cher, Madonna, Prince and Michael Jackson and sold her creations in big stores like Saks New York, Harrods and Harvey Nichols.

Helen Storey didn't throw aside fashion when interrupted her production in June 1995. She only defined, she wouldn't work anymore commercially. After losing her husband, victim of cancer, launched her autobiography in 96 (Fighting Fashion - Faber & Faber) where describes her career, the rising and the fall of her retail business, her creative processes and yet the British fashion scene of that time.

She became a professor and a researcher at London Institute and a lecturer in universities in several places of the world. She inaugurated a not for profit foundation - the Helen Storey Foundation - and since then, she has been fighting for funds for her researches, creations and educational projects.

Her first exhibition, Primitive Streak, was inspired in the reproduction process and evolution of the embryo cells. Together with her sister, Kate Storey - biologist from Oxford University - joined the worlds of science and shape, through creations which translated the first 1000 hours of life. The images of the cells proliferation and the great scientific question that the process is like that one which causes the cancer were the motions for a surprising collection. The show was around several countries between 97 and 2001, while Helen was already working in her following intersection with science: Mental.

Primitive Streak's images. Photos from the web site http://www.helenstorey foundation.org/

Even more complex, Mental is an emotional/mental track through the feelings of a woman. Storey invites the spectator, to try listening what goes on her mind... Longevity, memory, genetic, maternity, sexuality, loneliness are just some of the concepts which the artist explores. In collaboration with the scientist Dr. John McLachlan, chemical experiments, interactive games, honey projection and sculptures compose the three parts of the show which involves yet the participation of Athenas Institute, where are done researches about the pheromone - hormone linked to the animal sexuality and discovered in the human beings, in the 80's .

Last Ride, one of Mental's sculpture-dresses. Time for looking into Helen Storey's mirror of emotions.

To explore the emotional side which mobilizes the creativity, invites the spectator for interaction. At first, in a laboratory-environment, the visitor has the chance of reproducing an experiment discovered in 1958 which challenges scientific explanations. In glass recipients, substances blended change color and produce random results, referring to the fact that science can't explain everything.

Follows an environment with the digital game Whisper. It demands answers and image associations which encourage the spectator to reflect about his emotions. Helen's voice in 5 white I-Mac monitors, alerts that the answers will help her "to complete her own identity", they will affect in what she will become by the end. "What is your fear? " "What is the color of love?" "What emotions dominate your life?" They are questions which intend to create a "new Helen" at the end of the game.

On the above floor, First, Last, Everything reflects about the human sexual motivations. It invites to the touch and strings of light are lit on the way made by the hands. In the next room, the Death Dresses - sculpture-dresses in several materials - they have suggestive titles as Memory, Death or Maternity and extend the trip across the feminine.

First, Last, Everything. Female body covered with fur and fiber-optic.

The Mental project will continue in November 2002 through the concepts of "fragility and strength". It will be at ICA for a short time, but has great visibility through the web site http://www.helenstor eyfound ation.org/.

Institute of Contemporary Arts - The Mall - Charing Cross or Picadilly Circus tube
Until 20/07/2001